Vitamin C: Brighten, Protect, Renew

Vitamin C and its derivatives are excellent additions to skincare. At Nourish London, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside are used, each offering particular formulation strengths.

Water-soluble derivatives include sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside. Oil-soluble derivatives include ascorbyl palmitate and THD ascorbate.

In the body, Vitamin C acts as a powerful antioxidant and essential nutrient that neutralises free radicals, stimulates collagen production and helps regulate melanin synthesis. While foundational clinical studies have tested ascorbic acid directly, Nourish London formulates with stabilised derivatives, chosen for better skin compatibility, shelf stability and gentler delivery.

Vitamin C and its derivatives work in the skin in several ways.

Antioxidant Protection: neutralises unstable molecules generated by UV rays and pollution that can damage skin cells.

Reduces Oxidative Stress: helps prevent premature ageing driven by environmental damage.

Supports Collagen Production: promotes healthy collagen synthesis and helps prevent the collagenases that break it down.

Evens Skin Tone: helps regulate tyrosinase activity, which is involved in melanin production and the development of dark spots.

Clinical evidence supports these effects. A six-month, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in subjects with photoaged skin found that topical ascorbic acid produced measurable improvements in the clinical and ultrastructural appearance of photoaged skin (Humbert et al., 2003), and a separate study found topical ascorbic acid measurably improved the surface topography of photodamaged skin (Traikovich, 1999).

Water-Soluble Vitamin C: degrades rapidly in water, so it must be paired with stabilising antioxidants. It requires a low pH to penetrate the skin, needs chelating agents to bind trace metals that accelerate oxidation, and should be stored in airtight, opaque containers.

Oil-Soluble Vitamin C: tends to be significantly more stable. It is best formulated to a pH closer to natural skin pH, should be added during the cool-down phase, and requires a lipid-based carrier.

Nourish London's founding formula, Argan Skin Rescue, uses ascorbyl palmitate alongside argan oil, ginger extract, abyssinian oil and orange oil. It was independently tested against water and glycerine controls in a clinical trial measuring transepidermal water loss. The finished formula reduced water loss by up to 28 percent and kept skin measurably more hydrated for up to 24 hours, with results confirmed as statistically significant (Aspen Clinical Research, 2012). This study evaluated the complete Argan Skin Rescue formula rather than ascorbyl palmitate in isolation.

Vitamin C is the primary replenisher of Vitamin E in the skin. When Vitamin E neutralises a free radical, it becomes temporarily spent, and Vitamin C helps restore it, meaning the two work best when formulated together rather than in isolation (Telang, 2013).

As Dr Pauline Hili, Nourish London's founder and formulator, explains: "Topical vitamin C is a crucial ingredient when it comes to healthy skin. It helps neutralise the effects of damaging free radicals, supports collagen production, and helps even out skin tone. We particularly like using it synergistically with ingredients like argan oil and tocopherol, where you get a one-plus-one-equals-three effect."